Tastings from the Cellar: Aged Gan Kou Oolong Roasted 2012 (Tea Masters)

Today I tasted the roasted version of the Taiwanese Gan Kou oolong bought from Stephane Erler from the Tea Masters -blog.

This particular tea is an exceptional Taiwanese oolong, because it has been cultivated at a relatively low height in Southern Taiwan. When I bought this tea, I chose to buy the lightly roasted version over the greener and more modern version, because I had been reading that the traditional more roasted and more oxidized oolongs were better suited for aging.

There is a quite strong roasted scent in the dry leaves, that does not leave any room for the musty aroma of aged oolong. Once the leaves have been rinsed with hot water, they release an intense smell of sour plums, which soon transforms into an even stronger notes of dried berries.

The aroma of the brew itself is surprisingly mildly roasted. One can distinguish notes of old wood, pine forest, and dark fruits behind the roast. During the time it takes to drink the cup, the aroma of berries and caramel becomes more apparent. In the second infusion, one can also notice a more traditional soft and misty floweriness of Taiwanese oolongs.

There is pretty much no signs of the roast in the taste of Gan Kou. At first one can detect faded signs of the roast, which manifests as a kind of twisted aroma of coal and ashes, but this scent is quickly replaced by notes of flowers and an incredibly complex aroma of dark fruits and caramel. The mouthfeel of the tea is silky smooth and gives an impression of tastelessness before the flavour develops.

All in all I am extremely impressed how this tea has developed over the years. I remember how at first I did not much like Gan Kou, because of the dull and monotonous roasted character, which covered up everything else. However now after the roast has faded, what is left is a very complex and classy oolong. As this tea shows no signs of deteriorating quality, I will take it back to the cellar for a couple of years at least.